On Feb 20, 3:01 pm, "Jeffrey L. Kline" <Kli...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Here's what Pickering has to say. Note they do say it's OK to use dry,
well
> decomposed manure.
>
> Before you plant:
>
> a.. Gather the tools, etc. you need; spade, gloves, bucket of water,
> garden hose with water turned on.
>
> b.. Decide where the plants are going to be planted.
>
> c.. Prepare the Planting Area or Rose Bed. Ideally one should prepare
the
> bed about 3 weeks prior to planting. Roses prefer a fairly rich clay
based
> soil that is well drained. They also benefit from generous amounts of
> organic matter; peatmoss, compost, or well rotted (or Packaged) manure
mixed
> into the soil. The area should have about 18" of good soil mixture for
best
> results. If you are planting roses in an existing garden you should
prepare
> each location prior to planting.
>
> d.. Dig and prepare the holes. Dig the holes about 18 inches deep and
> wide, mix in a handful of bonemeal or superphosphate at the bottom of
the
> hole. You CAN omit the bonemeal if you're going to use a plant starter
> solution after planting). DO NOT USE GRANULAR ROSE FOOD AT PLANTING
TIME, IT
> WILL KILL THE ROSE.
>
> Ready to Plant:
>
> Bare Root Plants - Place in a bucket of water while you're working,
removing
> only the one that will be immediately planted. If you can't fit all the
> plants in the bucket, leave the remaining ones sealed in the bag in a
cool
> place out of the sun.
>
> Established Potted roses - When removing containers TAKE CARE NOT TO
DISTURB
> THE ROOT BALL. Place the rose in the hole setting the union AT LEAST 2
> INCHES BELOW THE SURFACE of the garden. This is imperative in zone 6 and
> colder as it affords the plant extra protection in the winter, in warmer
> climates the union may be placed level with the surface. You may plant
> deeper if you wish.
>
> *Some of our customers in Minnesota and Manitoba plant as deep as 6
inches
> below the surface with great success.
>
> Back fill the hole and compress the soil with your foot. Packing it down
> with your hands isn't good enough as it doesn't eliminate air pockets.
>
> Water the plants thoroughly with plain water or you may use a plant
starter
> solution but DO NOT USE ROSE FOOD AS IT WILL BURN THE ROOTS.
>
> Back fill the remaining depressed area with more soil and ensure that
the
> union is covered by at least 2".
>
> For early (or late) season planting hill the plants up with a mound of
soil
> about 10" deep. This protects the plant for the winter or if planting in
the
> spring, protects the plant from drying out while it sets roots. Remove
after
> 2 weeks.
>
> http://www.pickeringnurseries.com/planting.htm
>
> Jeff, Southeast Michigan, zone 5 (and its colder than a well digger's
butt!)
>
> <greatyetioftheno...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>
>
news:3812ae07-ef44-48d0-a6fa-9e111862b87b@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> >I have a bunch of new bare-root roses coming from mail order that I am
> > going to plant around my patio, and was looking for suggestions for
> > the most effective soil amendments.
>
> > Last year I planted my first rose bushes (I am a rookie) with a mix of
> > dehydrated cow manure and peat moss. It took about 1 - 2 months
> > before the plants started to grow, and I was concerned that the cow
> > manure was too high in nitrogen and perhaps was stunting/slowing the
> > roses' growth.
>
> > Any good recommendations?
I have a follow up. You posted that I shouldn't use granular food
when planting a bare root rose. How long after the rose has been
planted can I begin to add the food?
I use the Bayer 2-in-1 Systemic Rose fertilizer, but they indicate you
can place it in the ground at planting. I want to get the roses off
to a good start, but I really want to also have some color this year
too.
|
