I just spread the Epson's salt on the ground and scratch it in, although I
see no reason why you couldn't put it in water. I do it just once a year
on
roses I want to promote basal breaks. Some people apply it annually as a
matter of course.
The little green guys sound like sawflies' larvae to me. I've made
nicotine
tea (a nod to Jerry Baker) to kill them, although I bet insecticidal soap
or
neem oil would do the trick as well. All these methods require direct
contact and can be stressful to the plant if it is not well watered and/or
it is too warm out. I often apply the produce early in the morning, then
return in a few hours and wash it off. It takes a couple of applications
to
clear them out. I never used BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) but I know
people
who have and say it is very effective as well and does not require direct
contact with the little devils.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacillus_thuringiensis
Good Luck
Jeff, Southeast Michigan, Zone 5
(Hey Texas, we have 6 inches of snow and more coming!)
"Richard Harison" <noway@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:1206279087.395169@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Thanks again,
> Maybe I'll do both...cut back some of the scragglier canes that don't do
> too much anyway now and 40-50% after bloom. I assume the Epson salts
are
> applied in a solution. Is one application enough, or is there a
schedule?
> There also seems to be a pest invasion after bloom. Little green worms
> about 1/4 inch long on leaf bottoms.
> Any ideas for greenest yet effective control there?
> --
> All the Best,
> Richard Harison
>
> "Jeffrey L. Kline" <Klinej@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:5KiFj.35311$J41.3888@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Sorry for that poorly worded message, I hate it when I hit the send
>> button too soon.
>>
>> When you prune it all depends on if you want any blooms this year. If
>> you really want to move the plant along, trim it now. But if you do,
>> you'll loose the blooms from the old wood you cut away. In general,
you
>> don't prune non repeaters until after they bloom, as they bloom on old
>> wood, so cutting any way will reduce the cane available for blooming.
>> Sometimes its worth losing a year of blooms, and if that's the case, go
>> for it now. It the long run, it won't make a big difference. Just be
>> sure to feed and water it to promote cane development, and try the
Epson
>> salts.
>>
>> Best Regards
>>
>> Jeff, Southeast Michigan, Zone 5
>>
>>
>> "Richard Harison" <noway@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> news:1206234498.974401@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> Thanks Jeffrey,
>>> Some did say that March was the best time since the bush is still
>>> "sleeping"
>>> Any thoughts there?
>>> By 1/3 I meant 1/3 of all canes--right to the ground
>>> And yes---it is a non-repeater
>>> Thanks again
>>>
>>> --
>>> All the Best,
>>> Richard Harison
>>>
>>> "Jeffrey L. Kline" <Klinej@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>> news:4PhFj.28819$R84.1260@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> Harison's Yellow comes from the Rosa foetida class, which are the
>>>> origin of most modern yellow roses. Very cool. It is, as far as I
>>>> know, a non-repeater, which often blooms on old wood. If you want to
>>>> develop new basal breaks, (canes from the base) old will need to cut
>>>> back the old wood, which may limit the bloom for a year.
>>>>
>>>> Unless you don't care if you get any blooms this year, I would wait
>>>> until after it blooms this year, so you can get all to blooming
>>>> possible, then remove 50% of the old wood, to the ground. The rest I
>>>> would cut back some, but keep foliage, so you don't end up with bare
>>>> sticks! Put some Epson salt (about 1/4 cup) around the base (soon
>>>> would be good) to help promote new basal breaks. Next year, do the
>>>> same thing, cut back 50 % for the remaining old wood, until, after
>>>> several years, you've turned over tall of the canes.
>>>>
>>>> The cut 1/3 stuff is more for hybrid teas. I agree, new
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Richard Harison" <noway@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>>> news:1206222761.154534@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>>>I have a 17 year old Harison's Yellow which stands about 5' high.
>>>>> Problem: all the growth is at the top 1' leaving 4' canes, some 3/4"
>>>>> thick.
>>>>> I would like to encourage new growth from new canes, so that the
plant
>>>>> appears denser
>>>>> Some say cut 1/3 or so back to the ground
>>>>> Some say new canes will not bloom (at least in first year)
>>>>> Some saw they do not respond well to pruning at all--leave it alone
>>>>> Most who favor pruning say late winter is the time to do it
>>>>> Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> P.S. You are not seeing things, a am a direct descendant of the
>>>>> rose's
>>>>> breeder
>>>>> I know more of its history than cultivation!
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> All the Best,
>>>>> Richard Harison
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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